An Adventure In Local Fare

Last night we were treated to a fresh, flavorful, succulent meal that in the States would have cost us a small fortune!  The kicker is, for 7 people, our bill came to about $40 US.  Stick that in your pipe and smoke it!

Dying to know what we ate?  Freshly caught Filipino seafood.

I’ve seen Andrew Zimmerman, Anthony Bourdain, and countless others sample foreign fares in exotic locations.  I’ve seen them eat squid adobo cooked in its own ink.  I’ve seen them eat raw fish cooked not over heat, but in vinegar (not sashimi, but kinelau).  I’ve seen them eat whole scallops (roe and all) and rave about the flavor.

As of last night, so have I.  Guess what?  It was sooo tasty! 

Most Americans are so consumed with the appearance and texture of food to be able to consume some really good things!  Because of this simple-minded fact, we miss out on so much (I include myself in this generalization).  We say, “How can you eat that?” when the simple fact is we consume far worse things in processed foods.  I’m straying from my story…

We drove up to Palipali, an open cabana-type restaurant.  A massive canopy stretches across wooden beams.  The moist south Pacific air moves through the open walls.  The potent smell of seafood emanates from the freshly caught fare at the choosing station.  Apprehensively, we followed Papa Dan and Pastor Al to where the “food” waited. 

A broad selection of fish, shellfish, beef, pork, and chicken was spread across several counters.  Not having the faintest idea about what I should choose, and frankly being a little turned off by the strong smell of fish, I opted not to give my input on the meal choices.  I placed my wellbeing into the capable care of Papa Dan and Pastor Al.  As the men behind the counter quickly attended to our order, we walked over to our table.  It was at this point I decided I would try whatever came our way, even if it was a small bite.

Soon our waiter came to take our drink orders.  I was pleasantly surprised to hear that sodas in glass bottles were available.  Soda is always better from glass bottles!

I ordered a Sprite.

Spirited conversation occupied our time until our food arrived.  When it did, rich smells accompanied beautiful dishes, and we had so many to choose from, it’s hard to focus on just one or two.  So, here’s a recap of all the really good stuff:

1. Kinelau  (Kin – e – laow) – Raw fish cured in vinegar, onions, other things.  Really tasty.  Tangy from the vinegar, nice pungency from the wild onions.  The texture?  Great.  Nothing like any other raw fish I’ve had.
2. Yellow Fin Tuna Steak – 1 inch thick, moist, flaky, tender, perfectly seasoned.  Zero fishy flavor.  Eat your heart out.
3. Scallops – Visually, a little scary.  Served on a half shell with roe and connective tissue intact.  Cooked in native Filipino spices and flavorings, and really just delicious.  The muscle is the most flavorful part, but the roe is pretty good too.  And the texture of the roe isn’t what I thought it would be like.  It’s not squishy or slimy.  It’s firm but delicate.  Very nice.
4. Squid Adobo – Holy cow, was this good.  The squid didn’t have that rubbery quality it does at your local Italian restaurant.  This was quality stuff, and the flavor was fantastic.  The squid was actually cooked in it’s own ink, but other spices and flavorings were added.  It was served in a bowl with veggies and the sauce.  Scoop out and enjoy.
5. Barbequed Pork – pretty standard, right?  Not so much.  Thin strips of pork, basted in a local sauce, roasted.  Sweet and savory at the same time.  Just good stuff.

Everyone also got the sticky garlic rice, and that’s always good.

The evening was very surprising.  Once I tasted everything, my fears were gone.  I loved the meal from beginning to end, the smells, flavors, and company were perfect and none could have been better.